So, my friend Josh has been working on a route in Eldo called Superfly up in Kloof Alcove. It's a kinda short route but quite powerful clocking in at 5.12d. We had already been up there last Monday on a cold cloudy day working on it and Josh had came close then to sending but was denied. I guess the climbing gods weren't ready yet to grant him passage.
I too, have been toproping the route along with Josh, but still needed to work out one particular section of the route before tying into the "sharp end". The route is all gear and kinda spicey to lead. I had videoed a friend on it last summer and watched him fall ripping out a key piece of gear and taking a big whipper.
We met up about 10:30 and drove over to the canyon where another friend, Scott, was waiting. The three of us walked up the snowpacked trail to Kloof Alcove. Upon arriving, Josh decides to skip the standard warm-up and get directly on the intended route, Superfly. I don't think his initial intent was to seriously try and climb the route, no falls, to the anchor. More of a warm-up run. Well, he pretty much floated up the thing and got his redpoint first go! Wow, that was quick.
I decided to do a lap on toprope just to see how I was feeling today. I made it to the top with little trouble and no falls. Ok, I now have no excuse for not leading this thing I declared. After a brief rest I tied in and cast off on the powerful route. I was feeling fine and relaxed when I got to the business part of the climb. I placed my two pieces of gear and started to move out right and fell. AHHHH, after a quick rest, I tried again and nailed the move. I continued on thru the crux with no problems and was soon on the finishing ledge. Maybe next go.....
All photo's courtesy of Scott Bennett.
things are about to get hard for me here
me sticking the big crux move on Superfly.
Josh cruxing on Superfly
Josh about halfway thru the route. This section can be kinda scary until you get it figured out.
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