How the west was climbed: South Platte Dancing 101

So, I had a great day in the South Platte yesterday with Josh, Scott and Lisa. Scott had met Lisa and her husband in Eldo a few weeks back and invited them along. However, Lisa's husband was injured so he couldn't make it. The SPlatte is an area west of Denver extending pretty much all the way down to the Pikes peak area near Colorado Springs. There is literally a lifetime of climbing to be had in there.

Our day started at about 0745 off of Hwy 93 south of Boulder where I met up with Josh and Scott. We picked Lisa up in Golden at the park-n-ride near C-470. From there, it's about a 30 minute drive to the Cathedral Spires area of the SPlatte. This is a great winter destination because it's all south facing and warms up really nice. Unfortunately, this area is closed from March 1 thru the end of July for nesting raptors.

We arrive at the small parking area right off the South Platte river about 9am or so and it's only 8 degrees! This is fairly typical because the road is deep in the forrested canyon and doesn't get any sun and the cold air just sinks to the bottom. Luckily, the trail leading up to the climbing area is quite steep so you are throughly warmed up when you arrive at the cliff base. There is nothing quite like a Catherdal Spires approach!

Arriving at the Sunshine Wall drenched in sweat, we drop our packs and gulp down some water. Josh was psyched to give "Mississippi Half Step" a go over at Poe Buttress. I had climbed this route a couple years ago already but was up for another run on it. Another route I was thinking of giving a try was "Edge of Fright". I didn't like the sound of this one... Me and Josh continue further around to the right while Scott and Lisa stay at the Sunshine wall.

Mississippi Half Step is a two pitch climb on perfect granite on a formation called Poe Buttress. It's only drawback is that it is a short route. The overall quality of the climb makes up for this however. I take the first pitch allowing Josh to tackle the crux 5.11d upper pitch. I quickly arrive at the spacious ledge that signals the end of pitch 1. Josh shortly casts off on the 100ft crux pitch. He looks great until he arrives at the perplexing 8 ft crux section of the climb. It's not all that obvious how to get thru this part of the climb. Also, Josh had just spent 4 days or so in southern Arizona climbing and probably needed a rest day or two. After some falls and what not, he makes it to the anchor. "I hate being a climber today" Josh tells me as i lower him back to the ledge. Na, I say, "you just need a rest day or two". He later topropes the pitch again and cruises it with no problems at all.

By now, the sun was leaving the wall so I really didn't want to try "Edge of Fright" so I just toproped it instead. Wow, this would be a spooky lead since there is little gear and most of it small. Oh well, next time! We packed up and headed back over to the Sunshine wall where Scott and Lisa were climbing. This wall faces more SW so it was still sunny. Scott was giving "Far Reaches" a go which clocks in at 5.12c. He almost sent... he looked strong on it and I'm sure he'll get it next trip. Just before the sun went down, me and Josh raced up the "Standard Route" and watched the sun settle behind the distant ridge out west.

We walked back down the steep trail, now mostly in the dark, and talked about how awesome our day of climbing was. Wow, I'm beat!