So close, yet so far......

I met my friend Shumin over in Eldo this morning for a half day of climbing. The weather was gorgeous, another perfect day in Colorado. He suggested I try Hairstyles from the ground up, I'm smitten. Luckily, there wasn't a mob scene on the Bastille crack so Shumin headed up to the belay for our route. I joined him shortly and started putting my rack together. I had the pre-climb jitters but I knew that I could send the route regardless. After the initial apph pitch I was standing at the base of hairstyles and clipped the first bolt. When I arrived at the 11+ pre-crux, I grabbed the sharp sidepull and stood up on the small ledge. The next move is kinda tough and I was really amped up and just tossed for a hold and missed and took my first fall. Oh well, Maybe next time. I continued up to the main business of the route and launched into the cryptic sequence and fell again. Slow down, I told myself, you know these moves. I tried again and made it thru this time and stood up on the big ledge. Another 25 feet and I'm clipping the anchor. Hopefully it will go next trip out.

Shumin coming up the last 20 ft of Hairstyles.

Back to the project for a final burn.

Yesterday morning was so nice I decided to head back over to Eldo and rope solo Hairstyles/Attitude one final time before leading it. The canyon was a flurry of activity considering it was a weekday and the Bastille was the crag of choice for most since it faces north. I made my way up the steep climbers trail to the summit to set up my fixed line. As I looked down, setting up, I saw several parties of climbers coming up the ever popular Bastille crack. After getting my line set up I slowly lowered down the steep face to the start of the route. Once I was set, I begin climbing up the steep juggy start. I cruised the initial 11+ crux that sets you up for the main business of the climb. Not having warmed up on anything, I could feel a "flash" pump quickly coming on. I decided to hang and "de-pump" so I would have a chance at the crux section. After a quick rest I started up the tricky crux section and fell about halfway thru it. Ahhhh! I lowered back down and tried again and reached my previous highpoint, thinking, I just may get it this time! I honed in on the next series of holds and continued up hitting every move with precision. As I latched onto the finishing hold, I let out a "whoop"! I finally solved the puzzle. Next trip, I"ll come back with someone so I can tie into the sharp end.
back on top after figuring it out

Hairstyles and big attitude.

I woke up early this morning (memorial day) and decided to buzz over to Eldo and do a few laps on a route called Hairstyles and attitude. I tried the line about 2 years ago but never went back to finish it. About a week ago, a local hardman named Scott sent the rig on gear! It's a bolted route with about 10 clips or so. The crux section is kinda involved and goes on for about 8 feet or so. It ain't no two move wonder, that's for sure. After about two burns on it I almost have the crux figured out and hope to go back and send it. However, I'll be clipping the bolts! I also ran into my friend Shumin on the top of the Bastille. He had just climbed the route Northwest corner with Shawn M.

Sandy(my wife) met me about noon in Boulder and we headed to the Original Pancake House for a late breakfast. Today was also the day for the Bolder Boulder(10k race) so traffic was heavy on hwy 36. Just as I was approaching downtown, sitting at a traffic light, I felt my car shutter and watched as someone sideswiped the left side of my car. Shocked, I tried to get a good look at the offending vehicle because it kept on going down the road. Sandy actually jumped out of the car and chased the red suv down the road but they got away. In the end, there was no damage done to my vehicle, just an exchange of paint mostly. After eating, we walked around the Boulder creek festival and picked up some nice framed photos for the house.

hangin' out on top of the Bastille.

Another gloomy day

beautiful flowers along Boulder creek.

Well, It started out a somewhat sunny morning but eventually turned to thunderstorms and heavy rain. I met my friend Guy over in Eldorado Canyon for some climbing. After warming up on some obscure route we were forced back down with claps of thunder and lightning. We had planned to head higher up on the west ridge but had to bail and head back to the car. The past few days have been somewhat unsettled with rainy weather. Hopefully the weather will moderate over the next couple days. Enjoying a cold beer after being shut down by rain in Eldo.

Falling just above Long Ledge, Salathe' Wall

This is all the gear I zippered out leading off of Long Ledge about midnight trying to summit in the dark. Luckily, I had a good red alien in that stopped my fall. This photo was taken the next morning. I have heard of a story of someone else taking the same fall but zippered out everything and took a 100 footer! However, my fall in the dark scared the crap out of me! This is what can happen when you've been climbing for well over 14 hours with a case of "summit fever".

Salathe' Wall 2008

This is me and Steven on the Salathe' Wall back in the fall of 2008. I believe this was taken on Long Ledge just a few pitches from the top. We topped out about noon on our fourth day of climbing.

Gloomy Memorial day weekend

looking west towards the foothills

As I sit writing this, the weather outside is overcast and gray. I have plans to climb with my friend Guy tomorrow, but the rain may prove otherwise. I'm sure we'll meet in Eldo as always but not sure yet. Lately, it seems that most of my friends are fun-employed and living on the road as a "dirtbag" climber. At this time of the year they are all in Yosemite Valley living the dream. My friend Steven, who is out there now, has plans to climb a couple "big walls" on El Cap. We climbed the Salathe' Wall together last fall and had a blast!