How the west was climbed: Colorado fried chicken Eldo style

Local hardman Hank Caylor on Kickin' Chicken.
Photo by Brian Solano taken from MP.

Winter seems to be in full swing along the front range here with cold, cloudy days being the norm. I have decided to take a little time off from climbing to try and shake this nagging pain in my right shoulder. I'm hoping some PT will alleviate the problem so I can get back out there and put away some projects in Eldo.

However, I still plan on getting out with the crew to take shots while I'm on hiatus. I caught wind last night that Scott and Josh were meeting in Eldo this morning to go give Kickin' Chicken a go over on the west ridge. I had tried this spicy line a little over two years ago but seemed to never put it away. It's kinda spooky with big, bold moves checking it at 5.12b R. A critical fixed nut is all ya got for the crux section and it looks like it's about ready to blow any day now.

Now, from the ground, the climb really doesn't look all that inspiring to waste your time on. But, once you're on it, it turns out to be one wild ride with incredible position. Kickn' Chicken actually shares the same start with a route called Wild Turkey which is fully bolted and goes at about 12a. After the 5th bolt on Wild Turkey, you do a wild traverse out to KC. Once on the route proper, you clip a "fixed nut" as your first piece before launching into the business. Initiating this section is kinda spicy with hard moves to read.

First up is Josh. I had scrambled around to the top and dropped a fixed line in so I could lower myself right into the action. Once Josh is at the fixed wire he is understandably hesitant to launch into the unknown knowing that the wire could blow out sending him for a good 25 footer below. He decides to back it up with a yellow alien before gettn' after it. Now, it's go time. He moves up trying to decipher the cryptic crux and takes a short fall. Whew, the wire held. Now he has a bit of confidence in the gear and goes for it. At the top of the crux section is a small, hard to see crimp. He just misses it and goes for the big ride. Yeeeeaaaaahhhh! He yards himself back up to his high point and continues up the pumpy route to the top. Maybe next time Josh....

Josh starting the business on Kickin' Chicken

Scott is up next. The clouds have moved in creating cold conditions for him. He really just considers this a recon mission since the conditions are less then optimal and climbs "bolt to bolt" warming his cold digits at each bolt while hanging. After departing Wild Turkey, he clips the lone wire and goes for it. With cold hands, he takes a couple short falls before finishing. At Josh's request, he down climbs the route cleaning all the gear and is lowered to the ground from the start of KC.

Scott also in the business on Kickin' Chicken

Josh is now ready to give this thing a serious run for it's money. The sun is back out and conditions are near perfect as he starts up the red sandstone. He gets to the crux and is looking solid as ever. He moves up higher and is at that point of no return when he misses a crucial hold and takes a good 20-25 footer, even bigger than the first. Hell yes! That's what I like to see. People just going for it. Go big or go home! He gets back on and continues to the finishing ledge. So close dude!

Josh way out at the point of no return.

Scott decides to give it one last burn before leaving for work. He almost had it this go too like Josh but was denied. They are now both really psyched and can't wait to get back on it. Stay tuned for more dispatches.....