It seems that the weather always turns to crap when I want to head into the high country to do some alpine climbing. Last Sunday, me and my good friend Steven had plans to climb in RMNP up at Arrowhead but a cold front moved in Sat evening and ruined that. Ya see, Steven lost his job back in Feb and decided to just travel around a be a dirtbag climber for a while. He finally came back this way to spend some time here so I was super psyched to get out with him. For the past several months, I've only been able to keep track of him on Facebook.
Since the weather was too sketchy up in the mountains, we decided to just do some local stuff in nearby Boulder canyon. BC has a few really good crags with some ultra classic trad climbs. One route in particular, called the spoils, has got my interest again. I tried it, I think sometime last year but never went back to finish it. It's rated about 12b and kinda heady. It goes entirely on gear so I am really drawn to it for that reason. I'm still toproping it so I can figure out the crux before I lead it. It's got some wicked "body english" down low just getting into the crux section. After a few laps on the spoils we headed down canyon to Elephant Buttress. I told Steven there is a route there he should try called FM. It's probably the best hard 11 route in the entire canyon. He came really close to onsighting it but fell once.
Hopefully the weather will be nice this weekend because I have plans to go up to Arrowhead in RMNP with my friend Guy. I'll post a trip report if all goes well....
Below is a link to another blog by C.W. It showcases someone climbing the route I have been working on called "the spoils". Check it out!
http://verticalcarnival.blogspot.com/2009/07/spoils.html
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