Just been doin' some local craggin'

It seems that the weather always turns to crap when I want to head into the high country to do some alpine climbing. Last Sunday, me and my good friend Steven had plans to climb in RMNP up at Arrowhead but a cold front moved in Sat evening and ruined that. Ya see, Steven lost his job back in Feb and decided to just travel around a be a dirtbag climber for a while. He finally came back this way to spend some time here so I was super psyched to get out with him. For the past several months, I've only been able to keep track of him on Facebook.

Since the weather was too sketchy up in the mountains, we decided to just do some local stuff in nearby Boulder canyon. BC has a few really good crags with some ultra classic trad climbs. One route in particular, called the spoils, has got my interest again. I tried it, I think sometime last year but never went back to finish it. It's rated about 12b and kinda heady. It goes entirely on gear so I am really drawn to it for that reason. I'm still toproping it so I can figure out the crux before I lead it. It's got some wicked "body english" down low just getting into the crux section. After a few laps on the spoils we headed down canyon to Elephant Buttress. I told Steven there is a route there he should try called FM. It's probably the best hard 11 route in the entire canyon. He came really close to onsighting it but fell once.

Hopefully the weather will be nice this weekend because I have plans to go up to Arrowhead in RMNP with my friend Guy. I'll post a trip report if all goes well....

Below is a link to another blog by C.W. It showcases someone climbing the route I have been working on called "the spoils". Check it out!

http://verticalcarnival.blogspot.com/2009/07/spoils.html

Alpine season is here!

The weather has finally moderated here on the front range and it's high time to get your alpine on. It seems that the season is running a little late this year due to heavy snow this past winter. Me and Joe decided to check out how the black wall is looking today on Mt. Evans. I awoke at about 4:45am to a beautiful morning just as the sun was lighting the eastern sky. Joe rolled in about 5 and we headed down the road to I-70 towards Idaho Springs.

We arrived at summit lake about 6:30 or so and started racking up. The great thing about climbing at the black wall is that the approach is a "two pack a day, smokers dream". It only takes about 40 minutes to reach the top of the wall. Normally, an alpine day in RMNP would require a long steep hike taking about 2-3 hours. Also, you rap in from the top and climb your way back out and your done!

We had our sights set on a route called Cary Granite, which clocks in at about 5.11c. It's a really clean looking line and truly spectacular. We hoped to climb a second route, but the weather turned to crap and we bailed after our first climb.

Cary Granite has a really cool third pitch which starts with a spooky traverse requiring techy footwork to a thin hands crack. Above the crack looms a roof with a good hand crack but is really steep and powerful.

The climb was truly amazing and we had a great day in the mountains.

Joe starting up first pitch

Me after the spooky traverse

Good times in Eldo

My friend Joe called a few days ago to let me know that he and Steve Annecone would be in Eldorado Canyon Tuesday morning climbing. Steve was going to attempt his redpoint of a route called Superfly. I had top roped the route some a few months ago but never went back to finish it, or a least try. The route is short and fierce and rated at 12d. It's got great movment and being all gear is truly one of the last hard routes in Eldo without bolts. After Steve's attempt, I top roped it again and with the help of Steve's beta I was finally able to do probably the harest move on the climb for the first time. I finally saw the light at the end of the tunnel you could say. It's a great location to hang out early in the morning on these warm summer days and comes into the sun about noon or so. Below is a short video clip I shot of Steve on it.