Lumpy Ridge

Yesterday I met my friend Guy over in Estes Park for a day of climbing at Lumpy Ridge. Lumpy Ridge is situated just inside Rocky Mountain Nat'l Park north of Estes. One of the best things about climbing here are the commanding views of the continental divide. I feel very fortunate to live so close to such a beautiful area and have never taken it for granite. Most vacationers save all their money and vac time to visit this area and I live just an hour away.

I rolled into the trailhead parking at 8 am where Guy was already waiting. We racked up and shouldered our packs and began the 45 minute hike in. I've always enjoyed the approach hike into Lumpy because the views are just awesome. We arrive at our chosen area called the "Bookend" and pick our first route. Guy suggested we start on the first pitch of a route called Orange Julius which I had never been on before. It's a large left facing corner to a roof which you traverse out left to the anchor. When I arrive at the top of the corner in the roof above I waste too much time fiddling with gear and get so pumped I have have to hang before continuing on. Wow, this thing is hard for the grade, I yell down to Guy. He just laughs and agrees.

After this, we head around the corner to a route called Sun King. The first pitch is a steep slab which goes at about 10c. Guy asks if he can take a crack at the first pitch, at which I said sure. The opening moves are kinda dicey up thru a shallow seam to the first bolt. Above this the next bolt is quite a ways up with some tricky slab moves. Guy finishes the pitch in style and we decide what to do next. I had wanted to try a route I saw pictures of on mountain project but when we found it I decided not to because it just didn't look that great in person. Instead, we climbed a fun little route next door to it and then headed over to the renaissance wall area.

I wanted to give a route called Decisions a try I had belayed a friend last year on. The guide calls it 12a but some think only 11d. Either way it's a very sustained route with tricky route finding. I picked the wrong time of the day to climb it because the sun was blinding me whenever I looked to my right. I made it to the top with some falls but hope to go back soon and send it.

Me on Decisions

Guy starting up Sun King

Twin Owls