Lumpy Ridge

Yesterday I met my friend Guy over in Estes Park for a day of climbing at Lumpy Ridge. Lumpy Ridge is situated just inside Rocky Mountain Nat'l Park north of Estes. One of the best things about climbing here are the commanding views of the continental divide. I feel very fortunate to live so close to such a beautiful area and have never taken it for granite. Most vacationers save all their money and vac time to visit this area and I live just an hour away.

I rolled into the trailhead parking at 8 am where Guy was already waiting. We racked up and shouldered our packs and began the 45 minute hike in. I've always enjoyed the approach hike into Lumpy because the views are just awesome. We arrive at our chosen area called the "Bookend" and pick our first route. Guy suggested we start on the first pitch of a route called Orange Julius which I had never been on before. It's a large left facing corner to a roof which you traverse out left to the anchor. When I arrive at the top of the corner in the roof above I waste too much time fiddling with gear and get so pumped I have have to hang before continuing on. Wow, this thing is hard for the grade, I yell down to Guy. He just laughs and agrees.

After this, we head around the corner to a route called Sun King. The first pitch is a steep slab which goes at about 10c. Guy asks if he can take a crack at the first pitch, at which I said sure. The opening moves are kinda dicey up thru a shallow seam to the first bolt. Above this the next bolt is quite a ways up with some tricky slab moves. Guy finishes the pitch in style and we decide what to do next. I had wanted to try a route I saw pictures of on mountain project but when we found it I decided not to because it just didn't look that great in person. Instead, we climbed a fun little route next door to it and then headed over to the renaissance wall area.

I wanted to give a route called Decisions a try I had belayed a friend last year on. The guide calls it 12a but some think only 11d. Either way it's a very sustained route with tricky route finding. I picked the wrong time of the day to climb it because the sun was blinding me whenever I looked to my right. I made it to the top with some falls but hope to go back soon and send it.

Me on Decisions

Guy starting up Sun King

Twin Owls

More pics from the Black

Lots of poison ivy in the canyon

Jay coming up Checkerboard.

Me starting up Midsummer nights dream

Jay starting first pitch of the day.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Last week as I was looking thru the forum on MountainProject, I noticed that someone was looking for a partner to climb with down in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. I clicked on the post and recognized the person whom I'd met about a month ago at Indian Creek, his name is Jay. I gave him a call and the gig was on. Jay and I would make a good team with his ultra-chill vibe.

This would be my first trip down to the "Black" and I was super psyched to be finally going. The climbing down there has been described as the most adventurous in the lower 48. I would later find out this to be true. It's also been said that it makes Yosemite look like a pre-school!

Jay suggested we meet up in Carbondale since he is living in Aspen for the summer and take one car down the rest of the way. I arrived in Carbondale late Friday night and drove out of town to find a spot to sleep. I picked a dirt road that looked pretty desolate and crawled into the back of my car to sleep. When I awoke the next morning, I was surrounded by cows. About 7am my phone rang and it was Jay letting me know that he was in town. I cruised into town, picked him up and we headed south.

We rolled into the canyon about 9:30 and picked a spot in the campground. After unloading the car we racked up and headed down the cruise gully to start our first climb. The great thing about climbing here is that you walk down to the start of your route and climb your way back out to the top. When you top out, it's a short walk back to the campsite. We started on a route called A Midsummer Night's Dream. It's about 600 ft and clocks in at 11-. We topped out in the early afternoon and grabbed some lunch and headed back down for one more climb. This time we climbed Checkerboard which is about 400ft and goes at 10+. Once on top we went back and started dinner. Jay was really psyched to climb a route called Trilogy tomorrow. It's about 800 ft and goes at 12-. Let's do it, I said.

Sunday morning comes, and after a quick breakfast we head down cruise gully to the start of Trilogy. The initial approach requires some 4th class scrambling to reach the ledge where the route starts. Jay takes the first pitch which is a runout 11+ with a spooky traverse to the arete. He cruises this section and sets a belay for me to follow. I arrive at the belay and cast off on the 2nd pitch which goes at about 11+ also. It's a flared finger crack and really insecure. After taking one fall, I finish the pitch and bring Jay up. The next pitch is a little more moderate and Jay is soon bringing me up to the start of the crux pitch. The Black is famous for it's pegmatite bands of rock and the crux pitch journeys thru this lesser quality of rock. I start off on unprotected funky rock up to a small crack. I make a hard move up to a good slot that takes a hand size piece of gear. The slot is barely big enough for my hand let alone a cam. As I fiddle with the cam I suddenly pop off the rock. ahhh... There goes the onsight! I get back on and move up to the bolt guarding the crux and move up and right to easier ground. Whew! I got it. We continue swapping leads the rest of the day and top out about 4:30. As I'm driving home, I'm already wanting to come back down for some more adventure.


Jay at the belay.

Me on Trilogy.

Jay and me on top after climbing Trilogy.