How the west was climbed

2011

2011-01-21T23:29:00.008-07:00

Flatirons on New Years Eve.

Well, it seems that the new year is off to a good start here in Colorado. I've been getting out some to shoot photos and climb also when the weather allows.

A few days ago I woke up super early and drove over to Estes Park hoping to get some good sunrise shots of the St Malo Chapel. When I left the house at 5:30am it was quite pleasant out with temps around 48 deg. I stopped in Lyons to grab a coffee before heading up St. Vrain Canyon. About 15 minutes later the wind picked up and the snow started to fall. By the time I got to the Chapel it was full on winter conditions. I parked in the small lot behind the chapel and hoped the skies would clear allowing for a nice winter scene. As the sun begin to rise I realized that the weather was going to win this battle so I drove into Estes Park for another coffee. After a while I decided to drive back over to Boulder and do a little shopping. My friend Scott Bennett texted me wanting to know if I was up for some climbing. Sure, I said and met him over in Boulder canyon. He wanted to try a route called the Vasodilator at Blob Rock. Many consider this to be the best 5.13 around. I was able to get a few decent shots of him and some other climbers too. Scott is now on his way to Patagonia in South America for the next few months. He hopes to do a first ascent with friend Blake Herrington on the Cerro Pallone. Best of luck!

Becky Johnson on the Vasodilator 5.13a

Enjoying the late day sun on a cold day in Boulder Canyon.

Scott Bennett cruxing on the Vasodilator 5.13a

Desert Solitude

2010-10-22T22:14:00.008-06:00

I was fortunate last week to be able to spend a few days in the Utah desert with some good friends to enjoy the incredible climbing and vast beauty known as Indian Creek.

Here are some of my favorite shots from the trip.

I awoke to this one morning and ran up to the top of the hill to capture this shot.

Steven on "Camping under the Influence" 5.12 Second Meat Wall.

Usual night at creek pasture.

Still recovering from a broken back, Chick runs a lap on Broken Brain 5.12.

Steven sending Broken Brain 5.12, first go of the day!

Another beautiful sunset... one of the many reasons I keep coming back.

Rumble in da The Ghetto, Flatirons style.

2010-10-03T20:57:00.010-06:00

The weather continues to be just fantastic here in Colorado making for great days in the outdoors. Me and my friend Shumin climbed a bit in Eldorado Canyon Friday afternoon in the roof route area. We started on the classic Rosy Crucifixion and finished on some of shorter roof routes down below. Twas a tad bit warm....

I get a call late that night from my friend Matt telling me that he and his "crew" were planning on going up into the Flatirons to do some bouldering in an area called the "Ghetto" and asked if I wanted to join them. I said sure because I figured it would be a good chance to snap some photos of them and do a little bouldering myself.

John "JD" Dunn. One of the founding fathers of the Ghetto establishing many of the problems.

John going big!

Graig contemplating his next move.

Kai focused on the top out.

Matt "aka" Hip Hop looking solid on Skin Poppin' Slut.

Graig totally dialed in.

Hip Hop

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yours truly!

Published Photos!

2010-08-02T18:30:00.004-06:00

WooooHoooo! I'm so psyched to finally get a couple photos published in a soon to be released guidebook from Stewart Green. It's called "Best of Denver and Boulder" and should be out in the fall.

Stewart was looking thru some photos on Mountain project and stumbled across a few of mine and then contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having them in his upcoming guidebook. Of course I said yes!

The photo I took of Nick Chan on the Naked Edge took some effort to get myself into that setting and I was really happy with the shots I got of him that day. The shot of Jill Copper was a spur of the moment one day in Eldorado Canyon. Stewart had emailed me a list of routes he would like to have pictures of and the Bastille Crack was one of them. I was hanging out in Eldo one evening and noticed a couple walking over to that particular route. I went over and talked to them and asked if they were ok with me shooting photos of them. They kindly obliged and I shot several photos of Jill and her soon to be husband Creighton.

Hopefully this is just the beginning!

Nick Chan feeling the exposure on the Naked Edge.

Jill Cooper on the timeless classic Bastille Crack.

Great shots from Eldorado Canyon

2010-06-07T14:51:00.008-06:00

Well, Things are back to normal now that I've returned from Yosemite Valley and have settled back into the usual routine.

My friend Shumin gave me a buzz last Friday evening asking me about when a certain route in Eldo goes into the shade. Things have really heated up around here making it almost mandatory to seek shade when out climbing. He wanted to climb the route Jules Verne followed by the Naked Edge with his friend Nick Chan. These are both super classic climbs here on the front range. Jules Verne is pretty legendary because of it's committing upper run-out pitch that could easily send you for a big 40+ ft fall if you blow it. The Naked Edge is practically known throughout the world as one of the most aesthetic routes in Colorado. Together, these make a great link-up. A light bulb went off inside my head telling me I should go up there and shoot some pics of these guys. This would require me to slog up the east slabs descent so I could set up where the "Edge" finishes. I would simply build an anchor and drop a static line down the route so I could rappel right down into the action.

Shumin and Nick at the belay ledge.

So, after humping all my gear up there I lowered down the entire length of my 70m rope and was in about the perfect position. Shumin and Nick were busy climbing the lower pitches and were soon coming into view. Conditions were about perfect, weather, lighting etc... I think this is by far the most successful "shoot" I've had to date and are really happy with the images I captured.

Shumin on Lene's Dream. A great varation that links Jules Verne to the Naked Edge.

Shumin hoping something is there.

Small crimps for you.

Nick on the ultra-classic 4th pitch of the Naked Edge.

Nick goin' big!

Nick coming out of the "Bombay" chimney.

Back home

2010-05-30T11:02:00.005-06:00

I got in late Friday night just after midnight from San Francisco and had some time last night to edit a few photos from the trip. Some are climbing related and others I took of interesting things found along the way. More to come as I have more to time to go thru them....

Skyeler on the Bachar Cracker. Camp 4 Boulders.

Skyeler goin' big on Thriller!

Brad tops out on Midnight Lightning.

Brad on "After Midnight". Camp 4.

Seagull in the San Fran Bay on a gloomy morning.

Old barn just outside Oakdale.

Day of Rest

2010-05-22T16:10:00.002-06:00

Well, I've been out in the Valley for about a week now and I'm beat! Besides one day of rest for rainy weather, this is the first full day I've taken off. I drove into Mariposa for food and gas and stopped by the local library which has free internet.

Anyway, my first day in the Valley I climbed the first 10 pitches or so of the "Nose". Wow, talk about jumping into the "deep end" my first day! I climbed it with a friend of a friend who lives up in Vancover named Mike. We wanted to reach "Dolt Tower" but decided to stop at the top of the "stove legs" due to pending darkness. It's amazing how fast one can get off the nose since it has a dedicated rap route.

Next day it rained, but no big deal because I was a little tired from climbing the nose the day before. Hung out with my Skyeler from Durango for most of the day.

Day three was beautiful so me and Skyeler headed up to Pat and Jacks cliff do do a little "craggin". Highlight of the day was a route called the "Tube" It's a left facing corner clocking in at 11a.

My good friend Scott Bennett rolled into the Valley that evening and was amped up to do something big. So, we hiked up to the Ribbon Falls area to check out "Gold Wall". It's about 9 pitches or so and has some really hard climbing that can be easily aided with a bolt ladder down low. We chose to do the "Silent Line" finish which was really good. I linked two pitches together which provided a 215ft amazing hand, fist crack. Once on top we had an amazing view of Ribbon Falls which is going full force right now. The whole valley is full of beautiful waterfalls right now!

Yesterday was without a doubt the best day yet. Me and Scott hiked up to Hihger Catherdal rock to climb Crucifix. This is probably one of the best routes I have ever climbed. 12a crux with multiple 11+ climbing above that. Even the 5.10 pitches were hard due to their sustained nature. This climb has it all, fingers, hands, fists, off-hands, OFFWIDTH, and other sorts of weirdness.

Sorry for no pics yet, maybe when I get home!

Yosemite Valley here I come!

2010-05-14T07:54:00.006-06:00

So, after a long couple years I'm on my way back out to the VALLEY. My flight leaves Denver at 6am tomorrow morning and I'll be in San Fran by 10am. After a couple stops for supplies I should be in Yosemite by 4pm. Then, it's 2 weeks of climbing bliss til I return to cold, cloudy Colorado. Winter just can't seem to get the hint that it's not wanted here anymore. It has snowed probably two times this week and it just can't seem to warm up. Today's weather... 55 and rain. I'm done.....

I'm flying out there alone but will meet up with a few of friends that are currently on the road for most of the summer. Last trip out I climbed the Salathe' Wall on El Capitain, but this time I plan on doing lots of LONG free climbs. This is also my first time going out in the spring so I'm really excited to see all the waterfalls in full force. They are all dried up by fall.

I hope to get lots of photographs and will try and post something while out there.

Sorting thru all the gear last night. Keeping the checked bag at 50lbs is tough.

More action, different day!

2010-04-06T19:32:00.008-06:00

Brad Gobright redpointing Superfly! Proud indeed.

My buddy Scott Bennett buzzed me a couple days ago to inform me that there was a pending attack on Superfly again. By now you should be somewhat familiar with the name of this route. It's a lesser known but total classic in Eldorado Canyon up in Kloof Alcove.

I shot pictures of Brad Gobright attempting it on Saturday but he wasn't able to link it all together that day. This route packs quite a punch for being only 60 ft long. Another friend of mine, Joe Mills, was going to attempt it also. I shot pics of Joe climbing Freeline about a month ago so I knew he would probably try to onsight the route. In the end, Brad got his redpoint and Joe settled for a "Flash" after watching Brad climb it first. BTW, a Flash is still super proud! In the future I think I'm going to hang a 25lb dumbbell from Joe's harness just to make him struggle a little!

It's truly great to photograph friends with so much talent!

Joe Mills on his "Flash" of Superfly. Super Proud!

Joe about to enter the business

Joe making the slap out to the arete.

Scott Bennett aka "belay slave" hanging out waiting for the next assault.

Gotta love them green aliens!

Hot off the press!

2010-04-03T22:39:00.007-06:00

Brad G. on Superfly 5.12d

Just got back in from a great day in Eldo. The wind was howling in the canyon so we headed up to Kloof Alcove where the conditions are always dreamy. I met up with Steve Annecone and a friend of Scott Bennetts I have not yet met. His name is Brad and he is from Cali on a long roadtrip through the great west. He had heard about a route called Superfly and was psyched to give it a burn. Enjoy!

Time to venture out to the Desert

2010-03-26T03:43:00.017-06:00

Well, It's been an unusually cold and gloomy winter here in Colorado but spring is definitely in the air. We've had a couple big dumps of heavy wet snow in the last week but sunny 60 deg days are here. I made my first trip out to Indian creek last weekend to meet up with some frinds I haven't seen much lately. Sandy came along too despite having foot surgery several weeks ago to enjoy the warm desert air.

We awoke Friday morning to near blizzard conditions here along the Front Range. I'm thinking, great, there goes the weekend... I did a quick check of the weather along I-70 and noticed things looked much better once over the "divide". Go west we did! Once in Siverthorne, the weather improved greatly and continued on that trend the rest of the way thru Colorado.

Sunny skies greeted us in Utah and little if any snow was on the ground. Steven and Carrie were literally right behind us as we departed I-70 and continued south along Hwy 191 into Moab. Jay, Mary and Bob were a couple hours behind leaving Aspen and rolled into Indian creek close to midnight.

We awoke to a beautiful morning and climbed at Scarface Wall all day. I was able to get a few good pictures!

Bob on Comic Relief 5.12- Scarface Wall

Bob takes the ride on Comic Relief!

Jay plugging in gear before launching into the crux of Comic Relief.

Jay goin' big on Comic Relief.

Mary giving Comic Relief a TR burn 4 months pregnant!!

Carrie on Battle of the Bulge 5.11

Carrie gettin' after it.

Steven on the direct start to Battle of the Bulge 5.11.

Steven cruxing on Digital Readout 5.12

Josh Janes on Desert Vuarnet 5.12-

Ah... Life is good.

Thrasher!!!!

2010-03-13T21:41:00.006-07:00

Well, here's a change of pace. After doing more research and talking to Nikon owners, I decided to upgrade to the D90 yesterday. I bought the D5000 about a month ago but for some reason continued to research other models. I have a bad habit of doing this. Luckily, the shop I bought the D5000 from gladly allowed me to return it for the higher end D90. The biggest difference between the two was that the D5000 lacked the auto focusing motor in the body. The D90 has this motor built into the body allowing one to use any Nikon lens. The lack of this AF motor in the D5000 would have limited which lenses I could use. I think I made the right choice.

So, I took the new camera for a test drive today at a skate park near Coors field in downtown Denver to see just how fast it can shoot. 4.5 frames per second is fast! I actually had a lot of fun!

Check em out!

Colorado fried chicken Eldo style

2010-02-05T18:38:00.038-07:00

Local hardman Hank Caylor on Kickin' Chicken.
Photo by Brian Solano taken from MP.

Winter seems to be in full swing along the front range here with cold, cloudy days being the norm. I have decided to take a little time off from climbing to try and shake this nagging pain in my right shoulder. I'm hoping some PT will alleviate the problem so I can get back out there and put away some projects in Eldo.

However, I still plan on getting out with the crew to take shots while I'm on hiatus. I caught wind last night that Scott and Josh were meeting in Eldo this morning to go give Kickin' Chicken a go over on the west ridge. I had tried this spicy line a little over two years ago but seemed to never put it away. It's kinda spooky with big, bold moves checking it at 5.12b R. A critical fixed nut is all ya got for the crux section and it looks like it's about ready to blow any day now.

Now, from the ground, the climb really doesn't look all that inspiring to waste your time on. But, once you're on it, it turns out to be one wild ride with incredible position. Kickn' Chicken actually shares the same start with a route called Wild Turkey which is fully bolted and goes at about 12a. After the 5th bolt on Wild Turkey, you do a wild traverse out to KC. Once on the route proper, you clip a "fixed nut" as your first piece before launching into the business. Initiating this section is kinda spicy with hard moves to read.

First up is Josh. I had scrambled around to the top and dropped a fixed line in so I could lower myself right into the action. Once Josh is at the fixed wire he is understandably hesitant to launch into the unknown knowing that the wire could blow out sending him for a good 25 footer below. He decides to back it up with a yellow alien before gettn' after it. Now, it's go time. He moves up trying to decipher the cryptic crux and takes a short fall. Whew, the wire held. Now he has a bit of confidence in the gear and goes for it. At the top of the crux section is a small, hard to see crimp. He just misses it and goes for the big ride. Yeeeeaaaaahhhh! He yards himself back up to his high point and continues up the pumpy route to the top. Maybe next time Josh....

Josh starting the business on Kickin' Chicken

Scott is up next. The clouds have moved in creating cold conditions for him. He really just considers this a recon mission since the conditions are less then optimal and climbs "bolt to bolt" warming his cold digits at each bolt while hanging. After departing Wild Turkey, he clips the lone wire and goes for it. With cold hands, he takes a couple short falls before finishing. At Josh's request, he down climbs the route cleaning all the gear and is lowered to the ground from the start of KC.

Scott also in the business on Kickin' Chicken

Josh is now ready to give this thing a serious run for it's money. The sun is back out and conditions are near perfect as he starts up the red sandstone. He gets to the crux and is looking solid as ever. He moves up higher and is at that point of no return when he misses a crucial hold and takes a good 20-25 footer, even bigger than the first. Hell yes! That's what I like to see. People just going for it. Go big or go home! He gets back on and continues to the finishing ledge. So close dude!

Josh way out at the point of no return.

Scott decides to give it one last burn before leaving for work. He almost had it this go too like Josh but was denied. They are now both really psyched and can't wait to get back on it. Stay tuned for more dispatches.....

Josh goin' big!

Scott takes flight and flies away

Scott gettn' aggro

Josh bearing down with a five finger death blow.

Josh just getting started on the Wild Turkey start.

Scott cruxing

Yeah! Scott goin' BIG!

grrrrrrrrrr

Yours truly, cold and ready to get back down on the ground after hanging around for a couple hours shooting these guys.

Thin crimps and cold temps!

2010-01-24T13:35:00.009-07:00

Lately it seems I'm behind the lens more than anything when I go out climbing with my friends. I'm discovering I have a passion for outdoor photography and I would like to step it up a notch with better equipment when I can afford it. Right now I'm using a great little Nikon Coolpix 5600. It has been on many adventures in the past few years including a trip up El Capitan in Yosemite Valley to the beautiful alpine walls here in Colorado. I never leave home without it.

Yesterday I climbed up at Rincon wall in Eldorado Canyon with the usual crew and snapped some great pics of Josh leading a route called Camouflage. It's desperate crimping on a steep slab clocking in at a "sandbagged" 5.12b. I have yet to try it, but will probably give it a go sometime in the future. I still need to send Superfly!

Josh on the thin start to Camouflage

Josh making a dicey clip

Very insecure moves on Camouflage

South Platte Dancing 101

2010-01-11T18:35:00.027-07:00

So, I had a great day in the South Platte yesterday with Josh, Scott and Lisa. Scott had met Lisa and her husband in Eldo a few weeks back and invited them along. However, Lisa's husband was injured so he couldn't make it. The SPlatte is an area west of Denver extending pretty much all the way down to the Pikes peak area near Colorado Springs. There is literally a lifetime of climbing to be had in there.

Our day started at about 0745 off of Hwy 93 south of Boulder where I met up with Josh and Scott. We picked Lisa up in Golden at the park-n-ride near C-470. From there, it's about a 30 minute drive to the Cathedral Spires area of the SPlatte. This is a great winter destination because it's all south facing and warms up really nice. Unfortunately, this area is closed from March 1 thru the end of July for nesting raptors.

We arrive at the small parking area right off the South Platte river about 9am or so and it's only 8 degrees! This is fairly typical because the road is deep in the forrested canyon and doesn't get any sun and the cold air just sinks to the bottom. Luckily, the trail leading up to the climbing area is quite steep so you are throughly warmed up when you arrive at the cliff base. There is nothing quite like a Catherdal Spires approach!

Arriving at the Sunshine Wall drenched in sweat, we drop our packs and gulp down some water. Josh was psyched to give "Mississippi Half Step" a go over at Poe Buttress. I had climbed this route a couple years ago already but was up for another run on it. Another route I was thinking of giving a try was "Edge of Fright". I didn't like the sound of this one... Me and Josh continue further around to the right while Scott and Lisa stay at the Sunshine wall.

Mississippi Half Step is a two pitch climb on perfect granite on a formation called Poe Buttress. It's only drawback is that it is a short route. The overall quality of the climb makes up for this however. I take the first pitch allowing Josh to tackle the crux 5.11d upper pitch. I quickly arrive at the spacious ledge that signals the end of pitch 1. Josh shortly casts off on the 100ft crux pitch. He looks great until he arrives at the perplexing 8 ft crux section of the climb. It's not all that obvious how to get thru this part of the climb. Also, Josh had just spent 4 days or so in southern Arizona climbing and probably needed a rest day or two. After some falls and what not, he makes it to the anchor. "I hate being a climber today" Josh tells me as i lower him back to the ledge. Na, I say, "you just need a rest day or two". He later topropes the pitch again and cruises it with no problems at all.

By now, the sun was leaving the wall so I really didn't want to try "Edge of Fright" so I just toproped it instead. Wow, this would be a spooky lead since there is little gear and most of it small. Oh well, next time! We packed up and headed back over to the Sunshine wall where Scott and Lisa were climbing. This wall faces more SW so it was still sunny. Scott was giving "Far Reaches" a go which clocks in at 5.12c. He almost sent... he looked strong on it and I'm sure he'll get it next trip. Just before the sun went down, me and Josh raced up the "Standard Route" and watched the sun settle behind the distant ridge out west.

We walked back down the steep trail, now mostly in the dark, and talked about how awesome our day of climbing was. Wow, I'm beat!

Josh eating some pre-climb pizza

Josh coming up pitch one on Miss Half Step

Josh bearing down on Half Step

Josh starting off on crux pitch of Half Step

Looking over at Cynical Pinnacle. You can barely make out climbers on the last pitch of Wunsch's Dihedral.

Super flyn' again

2010-01-02T09:21:00.005-07:00

So, my friend Josh has been working on a route in Eldo called Superfly up in Kloof Alcove. It's a kinda short route but quite powerful clocking in at 5.12d. We had already been up there last Monday on a cold cloudy day working on it and Josh had came close then to sending but was denied. I guess the climbing gods weren't ready yet to grant him passage.

I too, have been toproping the route along with Josh, but still needed to work out one particular section of the route before tying into the "sharp end". The route is all gear and kinda spicey to lead. I had videoed a friend on it last summer and watched him fall ripping out a key piece of gear and taking a big whipper.

We met up about 10:30 and drove over to the canyon where another friend, Scott, was waiting. The three of us walked up the snowpacked trail to Kloof Alcove. Upon arriving, Josh decides to skip the standard warm-up and get directly on the intended route, Superfly. I don't think his initial intent was to seriously try and climb the route, no falls, to the anchor. More of a warm-up run. Well, he pretty much floated up the thing and got his redpoint first go! Wow, that was quick.

I decided to do a lap on toprope just to see how I was feeling today. I made it to the top with little trouble and no falls. Ok, I now have no excuse for not leading this thing I declared. After a brief rest I tied in and cast off on the powerful route. I was feeling fine and relaxed when I got to the business part of the climb. I placed my two pieces of gear and started to move out right and fell. AHHHH, after a quick rest, I tried again and nailed the move. I continued on thru the crux with no problems and was soon on the finishing ledge. Maybe next go.....

All photo's courtesy of Scott Bennett.

things are about to get hard for me here

me sticking the big crux move on Superfly.

Josh cruxing on Superfly

Josh about halfway thru the route. This section can be kinda scary until you get it figured out.

The Mouseketeers Club

2009-12-21T17:05:00.011-07:00

Hey, So I got in touch with my friend Josh last week who has been out in the "Valley" doing some climbing and what not. We decided to get out and do some climbing and catch up with what we have been doing. Josh suggested "Mickey Mouse" Wall which is just south of Eldo. He wanted to check out a route called the Red Dihedral which clocks in at 12d. I have heard about the route so I was up for the recon mission.

This is a good place to climb this time of year because it gets sun most of the day and the rock warms up quick. We decided to do the "outlaw" approach which follows the train tracks thru 4 tunnels before reaching the wall. The advantage to this way is that it's a level hike all the way over. It also brings back those childhood memories of walking the train tracks growing up as a kid.

Once reaching the area we racked up and Josh cast off on the first pitch which was still in the shade. brrrrrr The upper pitches were already in the sun so the suffering was short lived. Josh tried to sandbag me into leading the crux pitch but I let him have it. Things started out fine until it got hard. It stayed hard for quite a ways and Josh resorted to aiding his way up the 100 ft pitch. He was able to free climb sections here and there but this thing was brutal! After he reached the anchor, I lowered him back to the ledge and I gave it a try on top rope. Wow! this thing is stout I yelled. Probably the hardest route I've ever been on. I free climbed maybe 10% of it and pulled on gear the rest of the way. 12d????? yikes! After being served up a big slice of humble pie we headed down to the lower industrial wall and did a burn on "Soul Train" and called it a day.

Windy Weekend

2009-12-12T09:48:00.009-07:00

I was hoping to possibly get out some this weekend to do a little climbing since the temps have finally risen back into the high forties and the sun is shining. But, as always, the wind has decided to make an appearance creating bitter windchills making it better to climb indoors.

So, for a change of pace, I've posted up some of my favorites pictures of the local flora.

Columbine, the state flower

Alpine forget- me- nots. This is probably my favorite alpine flower. It's mostly found at 12,000 ft or above.

Looking west at Mt Evans.

No, this is not Colorado. Believe it or not it was taken in NJ at a local park. It's one of the best photos my camera has ever taken. Be sure to click on photo to enlarge because the detail is really good.

Cold days are here

2009-12-06T13:07:00.002-07:00

It's snowing out and a balmy 15 deg. I remember it was like this last year about the same time. I was trying to redpoint the crux pitch of Practice Climb 101 in Eldo when it turned bitterly cold for about 6 weeks. I had to give it up and wait for warmer days before venturing back to the canyon.

I was planning on climbing indoors with Steven, but an old shoulder injury has resurfaced and I have decided to take some time off from climbing to let it heal properly. Being injured is always so depressing because you feel like you are getting fat and out of shape. I still plan on hitting the rec center for sessions to stay fit however.

I'm Back!

2009-11-10T19:31:00.005-07:00

I know, I know. It's been forever since I posted anything here. My last post left off with a trip to the Black Wall up at Mt. Evans. I tried to sneak in one last alpine trip to RMNP but it snowed mid-Sept and that was the end of alpine fun. Oh well, next year....

Lately, I've been doing a ton of climbing over in Eldorado Canyon with my friends Scott and Joe. Usually this time of year, one feels like they are at their peak of climbing fitness, so you go after hard sends. The mornings have been perfect for climbing on Regarden Wall in Eldo. The sun hits the wall early and really warms things up quickly. Me and Scott took a run up the Naked Edge a few weeks back at just over 2 hrs car to car. I think 2:05 to be exact. The current record is 1:22 by some local hardmen. Me and Scott feel we can beat this time with a little practice.

We've also been climbing some really cool bolted pitches above the roof route area. The climbs, although bolted, are a little spooky at first because the bolts are quite spaced out. You either send or get sent home! Hands in the clouds was the first route we worked on followed by Huck Off. They both go at 12- and are super classic. It's great to have such talented, motivated partners to go try these routes with!

The weather has turned cold again with snow forecast all weekend, but Monday looks promising!

Scott on his way to sending Hands in the Clouds (12-)
Photo credit: Joe Crotty

Scott bearing down after the traverse.
Photo credit: Joe Crotty

Me on Huck Off's spooky starting moves.(12-)
Photo credit: Joe Crotty

Snatching the great hold at the 3rd bolt
Photo credit: Joe Crotty

Time to take flight!
Photo credit: Joe Crotty

Joe styling the start to Huck Off.(12-) Me belaying.
Photo credit: Scott Bennett

Joe getting down to business on Huck Off
Photo credit: Scott Bennett

Double Latte please.

2009-08-31T09:21:00.011-06:00

So, the weather continues to be good here in Colorado allowing yet another adventure high up in the mountains.

I've been trying to hook up with my friend Jay who lives over in Aspen the past couple months it seems but our schedules always conflict. We finally made it work and met over at Mt Evans for a trip over to the black wall. My last trip here was with Joe and we climbed a route called 'Carrie Granite". This trip I would be climbing a route called "Espresso" on the far right side of the wall.
I had heard that it was kinda dirty and often wet at the top but sometimes routes like this turn out to be quite the adventure. Adventure climbing is what it's all about.

I rolled into Idaho Springs shortly after 6am looking for a coffee house to help wake me up. I drove thru town and found nothing. I decided to take one last look down an empty street and saw an "open" sign glowing in a store front window. Score! It was a local coffee house. Once I had my double latte, I headed up to the parking area to meet Jay.

Jay rolled in minutes after I arrived and we were in the car headed up to summit lake in no time. It was a gorgeous morning and temps were actually quite mild considering the elevation of the area. Fifteen minutes later we were at the lake and started loading our packs. We walked over and around the cirque to the top of the black wall in about 45 minutes. Man, I love this approach! Gravy...

We simul-rapped in to speed things up and were at the bottom soon after arriving. The last little bit is easy downclimbing in a tight chimney but not too bad. We reached the base of our route and decided Jay would tackle the crux pitch and I would get the 10+ pitch above that. I started up the first pitch which was easy 5.10 with varied climbing. I set the belay and brought Jay up. Next up was the 11- crux, which was a layback crack that arches left near the top. It didn't look too bad from below but Jay later found out that it was really continuous with hardly a rest it's entire length. Jay made an impressive onsight of it with an occasional "ahhh!" when a hard move was encountered. I followed and cast off on the 3rd pitch after reaching the belay.

This pitch was long but not near as hard as the previous and had the occasional rest. At one point I was pulling large bushes out of the rock just so I could see the crack and place gear. After climbing almost an entire rope length I set a belay at the top of the pillar like formation. The next couple pitches were kinda junky and the last pitch, which I led, was completely wet and loose. This last pitch took quite a while to get up because of the loose, wet rock all around. I was so glad to finally top out and be done with it!

It had actually rained some while we were climbing, but since weather moves in from the west and we were on an east facing wall it never got to us. We stayed dry the entire day

Jay coming down the loose ledges

Me racking up for the first pitch.

Me on pitch 1.

Jay on the crux pitch

Jay nearing the belay on pitch 3

rain showers we never felt

Me on last pitch. It was wet and really spooky

Journey to Ithaca

2009-08-23T22:12:00.015-06:00

When you start on your journey to Ithaca, then pray that the road is long, full of adventure, full of knowledge. ~C.P. Cavafy

Ithaca is the name of a route on Arrowhead in RMNP I have been wanting to climb for the past few years now. I always knew it would be "full of adventure" as I found out over the weekend.

The journey started about 3pm Friday when Steven arrived at my house. We sorted gear and loaded up, then drove over to Estes Park. After a brief stop at the backcountry office to pick up our bivy permit, we were at the trailhead about 5pm. The weather was great for the hike in but unusually hot though. We arrived at Black lake in about an hour and a half and took a quick break. I was feeling kinda whooped from the heat and was hoping it would cool down soon. We still had about an hour to go and the final push was steep and relentless. When I arrived at the talus field below Arrowhead I was definetly not feeling well. I must have not drank enough water on the way in and it had caught up with me. We found our bivy site just as it was getting dark and settled in for the night. Unfortunelty, I had no appetite from the dehydration issue and went to bed hungry. The thought of food made me want to vomit.

We awoke to blue skies and very warm temps about 7am the next morning. I had been up in this very same area 3 weeks prior and it was quite cold in the morning. We could have been in shorts and been fine though. We discussed the route, called Ithaca which goes at 12a and decided Steven would lead the crux pitch since I felt he was in better climbing shape than me. Steven has been living on the road the past 6 months and been climbing non-stop.

Steven takes the first pitch which is a completely run-out slab for about 130 ft. The guide calls it 5.8 but we both felt it was easier. There were great holds the entire way up. This was good because a fall from it would be nasty. I take the second pitch which goes about 11a. It's a left facing corner and kinda tricky to protect. It ends below the looming ceiling above which is the crux. It's now time for "meat and potatoes" of the route and Steven is up. The guide says there is a "fixed nut" that protects the run-out traverse, but we can't seem to locate it. It's gone.... Steven plugs in a couple decent cams at the start and conjures up his psyche and starts out the strenuous traverse. It looks really awkward and you have to keep your feet really high just so they'll stay on the smooth rock. Halfway out, he thinks about trying to place another cam but realizes it's useless and continues on to easier ground. After about 15 ft, he reaches good holds and places a bomber #2 camalot. Whew! It's over and he onsighted the crux in style! He says, "that ain't 12a dude", more like 11c. After I followed it, I must agree that it's not 12a. I would just say 11+. We were both expecting it to be much harder.

I took the lead and linked pitches 4&5 together for a spectacular 5.11 link-up. Steven took the final pitch which had some spicy 5.10 and fun climbing on jugs to the top. We topped out shortly after lunch and started the long walk back out to the car. Maybe I'll do something on the Diamond next trip before it gets too cold.

Steven starting the heady crux of Ithaca. Notice the "intense" look on his face!

Me leading 4th pitch.

Coiling the rope after a successful summit

On the summit of Arrowhead

Me on the last pitch

Arrowhead

2009-08-02T14:54:00.019-06:00

Just got back last night from a kick ass trip to Glacier Gorge in RMNP. This has got to be one of the most beautiful places in all of CO. It also has some of the best climbing in the park. Yeah, Yeah, what about the Diamond on Longs you ask. The Diamond is great, but for shear beauty and solitude, nothing beats Glacier Gorge.

I met my bud Guy Friday over in Estes Park so we could hike in that evening to bivy and get up early Saturday to climb. We arrived at the trailhead about 5pm to sorta sketchy weather but nothing horrible. I actually don't mind this because it makes the long hike in more tolerable with the cooler temps. It usually takes about 2 1/2 - 3 hours to get up there but the scenery is awesome the entire way.

Just as it was nearing dark a rain storm moved in catching us off guard. We still had a little ways to go before reaching our bivy site so we huddled behind a large rock trying to stay dry. After about 20 minutes we decided to make a break for it because the rain didn't appear to be letting up and we were both soaking wet. We decided to head over to a known bivy cave below Spearhead, a neighboring peak, since we weren't sure about bivy sites around Arrowhead. We found the bivy empty and settled in for the night.

We awoke to a beautiful morning, and after a quick bite, headed over to Arrowhead. Some low clouds early in the morning had us a little uneasy, but it turned out to be a nice day. Our route of choice, called Arrowplane, looked wet on the hike over but dried out by the time we arrived. The first pitch is a spicey 5.8 slab with little protection but not death defying. I found the 2nd pitch a tad wet but luckily there were good holds around. I pushed this pitch into a 220ft lead to save some time. A couple more pitches brought us to the crux pitch which is a spectacular finger hand crack. The crux comes right off the bealy and soon eases to moderate crack climbing. A final 5.9 roof puts us on the summit. After a quick rap we are back at our packs and soon begin the long hike out. I always ask myself why I put in so much effort to come back into here, but time and time again I return. The climbing, combined with the beauty of the area always brings me back.

Me on the hike in at Mills Lake

Guy coming up final section before topping out.On the summit! Chiefshead is behind us

Rope art

Just been doin' some local craggin'

2009-07-28T10:31:00.005-06:00

It seems that the weather always turns to crap when I want to head into the high country to do some alpine climbing. Last Sunday, me and my good friend Steven had plans to climb in RMNP up at Arrowhead but a cold front moved in Sat evening and ruined that. Ya see, Steven lost his job back in Feb and decided to just travel around a be a dirtbag climber for a while. He finally came back this way to spend some time here so I was super psyched to get out with him. For the past several months, I've only been able to keep track of him on Facebook.

Since the weather was too sketchy up in the mountains, we decided to just do some local stuff in nearby Boulder canyon. BC has a few really good crags with some ultra classic trad climbs. One route in particular, called the spoils, has got my interest again. I tried it, I think sometime last year but never went back to finish it. It's rated about 12b and kinda heady. It goes entirely on gear so I am really drawn to it for that reason. I'm still toproping it so I can figure out the crux before I lead it. It's got some wicked "body english" down low just getting into the crux section. After a few laps on the spoils we headed down canyon to Elephant Buttress. I told Steven there is a route there he should try called FM. It's probably the best hard 11 route in the entire canyon. He came really close to onsighting it but fell once.

Hopefully the weather will be nice this weekend because I have plans to go up to Arrowhead in RMNP with my friend Guy. I'll post a trip report if all goes well....

Below is a link to another blog by C.W. It showcases someone climbing the route I have been working on called "the spoils". Check it out!

http://verticalcarnival.blogspot.com/2009/07/spoils.html

Alpine season is here!

2009-07-11T19:45:00.007-06:00

The weather has finally moderated here on the front range and it's high time to get your alpine on. It seems that the season is running a little late this year due to heavy snow this past winter. Me and Joe decided to check out how the black wall is looking today on Mt. Evans. I awoke at about 4:45am to a beautiful morning just as the sun was lighting the eastern sky. Joe rolled in about 5 and we headed down the road to I-70 towards Idaho Springs.

We arrived at summit lake about 6:30 or so and started racking up. The great thing about climbing at the black wall is that the approach is a "two pack a day, smokers dream". It only takes about 40 minutes to reach the top of the wall. Normally, an alpine day in RMNP would require a long steep hike taking about 2-3 hours. Also, you rap in from the top and climb your way back out and your done!

We had our sights set on a route called Cary Granite, which clocks in at about 5.11c. It's a really clean looking line and truly spectacular. We hoped to climb a second route, but the weather turned to crap and we bailed after our first climb.

Cary Granite has a really cool third pitch which starts with a spooky traverse requiring techy footwork to a thin hands crack. Above the crack looms a roof with a good hand crack but is really steep and powerful.

The climb was truly amazing and we had a great day in the mountains.

Joe starting up first pitch

Me after the spooky traverse

Good times in Eldo

2009-07-01T09:57:00.002-06:00

My friend Joe called a few days ago to let me know that he and Steve Annecone would be in Eldorado Canyon Tuesday morning climbing. Steve was going to attempt his redpoint of a route called Superfly. I had top roped the route some a few months ago but never went back to finish it, or a least try. The route is short and fierce and rated at 12d. It's got great movment and being all gear is truly one of the last hard routes in Eldo without bolts. After Steve's attempt, I top roped it again and with the help of Steve's beta I was finally able to do probably the harest move on the climb for the first time. I finally saw the light at the end of the tunnel you could say. It's a great location to hang out early in the morning on these warm summer days and comes into the sun about noon or so. Below is a short video clip I shot of Steve on it.

Lumpy Ridge

2009-06-22T10:33:00.009-06:00

Yesterday I met my friend Guy over in Estes Park for a day of climbing at Lumpy Ridge. Lumpy Ridge is situated just inside Rocky Mountain Nat'l Park north of Estes. One of the best things about climbing here are the commanding views of the continental divide. I feel very fortunate to live so close to such a beautiful area and have never taken it for granite. Most vacationers save all their money and vac time to visit this area and I live just an hour away.

I rolled into the trailhead parking at 8 am where Guy was already waiting. We racked up and shouldered our packs and began the 45 minute hike in. I've always enjoyed the approach hike into Lumpy because the views are just awesome. We arrive at our chosen area called the "Bookend" and pick our first route. Guy suggested we start on the first pitch of a route called Orange Julius which I had never been on before. It's a large left facing corner to a roof which you traverse out left to the anchor. When I arrive at the top of the corner in the roof above I waste too much time fiddling with gear and get so pumped I have have to hang before continuing on. Wow, this thing is hard for the grade, I yell down to Guy. He just laughs and agrees.

After this, we head around the corner to a route called Sun King. The first pitch is a steep slab which goes at about 10c. Guy asks if he can take a crack at the first pitch, at which I said sure. The opening moves are kinda dicey up thru a shallow seam to the first bolt. Above this the next bolt is quite a ways up with some tricky slab moves. Guy finishes the pitch in style and we decide what to do next. I had wanted to try a route I saw pictures of on mountain project but when we found it I decided not to because it just didn't look that great in person. Instead, we climbed a fun little route next door to it and then headed over to the renaissance wall area.

I wanted to give a route called Decisions a try I had belayed a friend last year on. The guide calls it 12a but some think only 11d. Either way it's a very sustained route with tricky route finding. I picked the wrong time of the day to climb it because the sun was blinding me whenever I looked to my right. I made it to the top with some falls but hope to go back soon and send it.

Me on Decisions

Guy starting up Sun King

Twin Owls

More pics from the Black

2009-06-14T09:20:00.003-06:00

Lots of poison ivy in the canyon

Jay coming up Checkerboard.

Me starting up Midsummer nights dream

Jay starting first pitch of the day.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison

2009-06-10T09:55:00.023-06:00

Last week as I was looking thru the forum on MountainProject, I noticed that someone was looking for a partner to climb with down in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. I clicked on the post and recognized the person whom I'd met about a month ago at Indian Creek, his name is Jay. I gave him a call and the gig was on. Jay and I would make a good team with his ultra-chill vibe.

This would be my first trip down to the "Black" and I was super psyched to be finally going. The climbing down there has been described as the most adventurous in the lower 48. I would later find out this to be true. It's also been said that it makes Yosemite look like a pre-school!

Jay suggested we meet up in Carbondale since he is living in Aspen for the summer and take one car down the rest of the way. I arrived in Carbondale late Friday night and drove out of town to find a spot to sleep. I picked a dirt road that looked pretty desolate and crawled into the back of my car to sleep. When I awoke the next morning, I was surrounded by cows. About 7am my phone rang and it was Jay letting me know that he was in town. I cruised into town, picked him up and we headed south.

We rolled into the canyon about 9:30 and picked a spot in the campground. After unloading the car we racked up and headed down the cruise gully to start our first climb. The great thing about climbing here is that you walk down to the start of your route and climb your way back out to the top. When you top out, it's a short walk back to the campsite. We started on a route called A Midsummer Night's Dream. It's about 600 ft and clocks in at 11-. We topped out in the early afternoon and grabbed some lunch and headed back down for one more climb. This time we climbed Checkerboard which is about 400ft and goes at 10+. Once on top we went back and started dinner. Jay was really psyched to climb a route called Trilogy tomorrow. It's about 800 ft and goes at 12-. Let's do it, I said.

Sunday morning comes, and after a quick breakfast we head down cruise gully to the start of Trilogy. The initial approach requires some 4th class scrambling to reach the ledge where the route starts. Jay takes the first pitch which is a runout 11+ with a spooky traverse to the arete. He cruises this section and sets a belay for me to follow. I arrive at the belay and cast off on the 2nd pitch which goes at about 11+ also. It's a flared finger crack and really insecure. After taking one fall, I finish the pitch and bring Jay up. The next pitch is a little more moderate and Jay is soon bringing me up to the start of the crux pitch. The Black is famous for it's pegmatite bands of rock and the crux pitch journeys thru this lesser quality of rock. I start off on unprotected funky rock up to a small crack. I make a hard move up to a good slot that takes a hand size piece of gear. The slot is barely big enough for my hand let alone a cam. As I fiddle with the cam I suddenly pop off the rock. ahhh... There goes the onsight! I get back on and move up to the bolt guarding the crux and move up and right to easier ground. Whew! I got it. We continue swapping leads the rest of the day and top out about 4:30. As I'm driving home, I'm already wanting to come back down for some more adventure.

Jay at the belay.

Me on Trilogy.

Jay and me on top after climbing Trilogy.

So close, yet so far......

2009-05-31T17:06:00.009-06:00

I met my friend Shumin over in Eldo this morning for a half day of climbing. The weather was gorgeous, another perfect day in Colorado. He suggested I try Hairstyles from the ground up, I'm smitten. Luckily, there wasn't a mob scene on the Bastille crack so Shumin headed up to the belay for our route. I joined him shortly and started putting my rack together. I had the pre-climb jitters but I knew that I could send the route regardless. After the initial apph pitch I was standing at the base of hairstyles and clipped the first bolt. When I arrived at the 11+ pre-crux, I grabbed the sharp sidepull and stood up on the small ledge. The next move is kinda tough and I was really amped up and just tossed for a hold and missed and took my first fall. Oh well, Maybe next time. I continued up to the main business of the route and launched into the cryptic sequence and fell again. Slow down, I told myself, you know these moves. I tried again and made it thru this time and stood up on the big ledge. Another 25 feet and I'm clipping the anchor. Hopefully it will go next trip out.

Shumin coming up the last 20 ft of Hairstyles.

Back to the project for a final burn.

2009-05-29T10:23:00.005-06:00

Yesterday morning was so nice I decided to head back over to Eldo and rope solo Hairstyles/Attitude one final time before leading it. The canyon was a flurry of activity considering it was a weekday and the Bastille was the crag of choice for most since it faces north. I made my way up the steep climbers trail to the summit to set up my fixed line. As I looked down, setting up, I saw several parties of climbers coming up the ever popular Bastille crack. After getting my line set up I slowly lowered down the steep face to the start of the route. Once I was set, I begin climbing up the steep juggy start. I cruised the initial 11+ crux that sets you up for the main business of the climb. Not having warmed up on anything, I could feel a "flash" pump quickly coming on. I decided to hang and "de-pump" so I would have a chance at the crux section. After a quick rest I started up the tricky crux section and fell about halfway thru it. Ahhhh! I lowered back down and tried again and reached my previous highpoint, thinking, I just may get it this time! I honed in on the next series of holds and continued up hitting every move with precision. As I latched onto the finishing hold, I let out a "whoop"! I finally solved the puzzle. Next trip, I"ll come back with someone so I can tie into the sharp end.
back on top after figuring it out

Hairstyles and big attitude.

2009-05-25T19:21:00.009-06:00

I woke up early this morning (memorial day) and decided to buzz over to Eldo and do a few laps on a route called Hairstyles and attitude. I tried the line about 2 years ago but never went back to finish it. About a week ago, a local hardman named Scott sent the rig on gear! It's a bolted route with about 10 clips or so. The crux section is kinda involved and goes on for about 8 feet or so. It ain't no two move wonder, that's for sure. After about two burns on it I almost have the crux figured out and hope to go back and send it. However, I'll be clipping the bolts! I also ran into my friend Shumin on the top of the Bastille. He had just climbed the route Northwest corner with Shawn M.

Sandy(my wife) met me about noon in Boulder and we headed to the Original Pancake House for a late breakfast. Today was also the day for the Bolder Boulder(10k race) so traffic was heavy on hwy 36. Just as I was approaching downtown, sitting at a traffic light, I felt my car shutter and watched as someone sideswiped the left side of my car. Shocked, I tried to get a good look at the offending vehicle because it kept on going down the road. Sandy actually jumped out of the car and chased the red suv down the road but they got away. In the end, there was no damage done to my vehicle, just an exchange of paint mostly. After eating, we walked around the Boulder creek festival and picked up some nice framed photos for the house.

hangin' out on top of the Bastille.

Another gloomy day

2009-05-24T17:40:00.012-06:00

beautiful flowers along Boulder creek.

Well, It started out a somewhat sunny morning but eventually turned to thunderstorms and heavy rain. I met my friend Guy over in Eldorado Canyon for some climbing. After warming up on some obscure route we were forced back down with claps of thunder and lightning. We had planned to head higher up on the west ridge but had to bail and head back to the car. The past few days have been somewhat unsettled with rainy weather. Hopefully the weather will moderate over the next couple days. Enjoying a cold beer after being shut down by rain in Eldo.

Falling just above Long Ledge, Salathe' Wall

2009-05-23T14:56:00.004-06:00

This is all the gear I zippered out leading off of Long Ledge about midnight trying to summit in the dark. Luckily, I had a good red alien in that stopped my fall. This photo was taken the next morning. I have heard of a story of someone else taking the same fall but zippered out everything and took a 100 footer! However, my fall in the dark scared the crap out of me! This is what can happen when you've been climbing for well over 14 hours with a case of "summit fever".

Salathe' Wall 2008

2009-05-23T14:50:00.001-06:00

This is me and Steven on the Salathe' Wall back in the fall of 2008. I believe this was taken on Long Ledge just a few pitches from the top. We topped out about noon on our fourth day of climbing.

Gloomy Memorial day weekend

2009-05-23T09:27:00.001-06:00

looking west towards the foothills

As I sit writing this, the weather outside is overcast and gray. I have plans to climb with my friend Guy tomorrow, but the rain may prove otherwise. I'm sure we'll meet in Eldo as always but not sure yet. Lately, it seems that most of my friends are fun-employed and living on the road as a "dirtbag" climber. At this time of the year they are all in Yosemite Valley living the dream. My friend Steven, who is out there now, has plans to climb a couple "big walls" on El Cap. We climbed the Salathe' Wall together last fall and had a blast!